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Arbutin Family I Saw In PCHI 2018
Mar 21, 2018

Almost all Chinese women do not care whether their skin is fair or not, which is why all the whitening cosmetics have always been popular. The mechanism of whitening skin products on the market is mostly "inhibition of melanogenesis". In many fullerenes, skin whitening ingredients, alpha arbutin and glabridin is the most promising of the "big three", to introduce the "three giant whitening raw material".

Alpha Arbutin

alpha arbutin for raw materials also introduced "materials with alpha arbutin whitening, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, freckle whitening is the principle":

Due to the formation of melanin occurs mainly in melanoma cells, study the formation mechanism of the melanocyte melanin showed that melanin formation is mainly composed of four kinds of enzyme in melanin cells: tyrosinase, DOPA isomerase (TRP-2), peroxidase, 5,6- two hydroxy indole carboxylic acid oxidase (i.e. DHICA -2- TRP-1) alone or in synergy results. To realize the real whitening of the skin, the inhibition of these melanin forming enzymes is essential. Tyrosinase is a major speed limiting enzyme in the process of melanin formation, which determines the amount of melanin formation. At present, most of the whitening products in the cosmetics market are mainly tyrosinase inhibitors, and new compounds are found at a faster speed each year.

While it arbutin can rapidly penetrate the skin, without affecting the cell concentration value at the same time, can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the skin, blocking the formation of melanin, combined directly through its own with the tyrosine enzyme, accelerate melanin decomposition and excretion, thereby reducing skin pigmentation, fade spots and freckles, and no toxicity, irritation, sensitization and other side effects of melanoma cells, as well as sterilization, anti-inflammatory effect.

Arbutin according to the structure can be divided into different types of alpha and beta type, it can inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme to achieve the whitening effect, is currently the most widely used beta type, on the market most of arbutin as beta arbutin, alpha arbutin only a handful of manufacturers, and the price is about 8 times higher than that of the former however, the whitening effect is 15 times more than the former, allegedly added to the alpha beta type 1/9 concentration can inhibit tyrosinase, whitening effect.

Once a scientific report pointed out that, when the concentration exceeds a certain dose of arbutin, melanocyte melanin will increase. Therefore, the provisions of the Taiwan Department of health, the content of arbutin in skin care products can not exceed 7%. As long as the control in the safe range, the photosensitivity of arbutin will not be excited.

At the same time, if the concentration is too low, persistent arbutin whitening effect will weaken, so 5% concentration is the safest and most efficient blemish blemish concentration, persistent effect, stimulating effect on the skin without.

In arbutin "family" there is also a newborn - deoxy arbutin.

deoxy arbutin

University of Cincinnati School of medicine in cell biology, animal experiments and human clinical trials have demonstrated the safety and efficacy of deoxy Xiong Guogan, experimental results show that in no light condition, deoxy arbutin reduces the melanocyte melanin content and tyrosinase activity, and 1.58 m - bear by compared with 0.39 m of hydroquinone is more remarkable on melanin content and tyrosinase activity effect. Proof of clinical trial for 8 weeks, from the beginning of the second week, fourth weeks, sixth weeks, eighth weeks, deoxy arbutin brightening effect, Cincinnati children's Hospital Center after human clinical trials have proved the effectiveness and safety of deoxy arbutin, 1% deoxy arbutin can reduce pigmentation, dilute the skin black spots. Similarly, Hu Zhiming confirmed that the deoxy arbutin inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in a dose effect relationship, at the cellular level, deoxy arbutin significantly reduced the expression of tyrosinase protein level, compared with arbutin, there was significant difference.

Deoxy arbutin can inhibit melanin content and tyrosinase activity, and antioxidant capacity, thus can be used for high-end whitening, anti-aging skin care products, such as cream, emulsion etc..

Deoxy arbutin can be added into the oil phase, the oil phase and then dissolved into the dissolution, and immediately emulsification time at high temperatures not too long, the final product pH value in the 5.5-5.8 is the best, no more than 7, Sodium Bisulfite also suggested adding a small amount of formula (0.02-0.1%), adding VE or VE acetate also help in the anti discoloration. Deoxy arbutin has good compatibility, dosage of 0.1-3.0%.

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